- Ann Sather - I love the cinnamon buns as much as the next good and decent American. But there is not a whole lot else to recommend this place anymore, especially with so many new and exciting brunch spots in the city.
- Frontera Grill - I've never actually been here. I've eaten at Topolobompo and Xoco, but never Frontera. After this though Bayless is going to drown someone in a tub of guacamole if Topo doesn't get 2 stars. And he will tweet 35 times during the process.
- Hopleaf - Went there last night. Review forthcoming. Awesome sandwich, but some kind of shady things going on. There will be blood.
- Los Nopales - I am torn about this. I am very happy for them. But I love that they are usually not crowded and serving some of the most underrated food in the city. This place pretty much is the definition of "very good value" and earned this award with flying colors.
- Lula Cafe - I was underwhelmed by Lula. Not awful, but not at all worth all the attention and the wait.
- Mixteco Grill- I had a decent meal here, but I would never have imagined that they would earn this award. Maybe I had the wrong things there. It seemed like any other small Mexican establishment when I went there.
- Perennial - Again, review forthcoming. Had an excellent brunch here. Surprised it falls in the price guidelines, as things were a bit pricey. Not unduly so, but wouldn't have guessed it as a "value" pick.
- Raj Darbar - This shocked me. Of all the Indian places in Chicago, this is one of the more nondescript, middle of the pack places. How this ended up getting this slot I don't understand.
- Smoque - Great, now the lines will be even longer. Not at all undeserved honor, as the BBQ here is wonderful. Just wish they would expand. But then I wish Doug Sohn would add a few thousand square feet too, and that's never going to happen.
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Michelin Bib Gourmand List - Chicago 2010
The Michelin Guide released their Bib Gourmand list of very good values in Chicago today. These restaurants are defined as "a very good value means an appetizer and entree, plus a glass of wine, will cost $40 or less." This is essentially places either not quite up to star-level, or places that simply do not aspire to that level of sophistication in their service and menu. Either way it is still a heck of an honor. The full list can be found at The Stew. A few places jump out at me though, and seem worth noting and having a few thoughts about.
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
HCH Review of Province
he devil is said to be in the details. This may be true. However, sometimes the divine also inhabits the small spaces, the margins, the tiny touches that make a place stand out from the crowd. Such it was for Province.
One of the best parts about going to a good restaurant is the feeling afterwards that "wow, they really did everything right." The feeling that for a short while the world was in perfect harmony. That's how we felt after leaving Province. We were happy and satisfied, so much so that even the rain wasn't able to bring us down.
We had a very early reservation, right as the restaurant was opening for Saturday night dinner service. The hostess was very pleasant when we arrived, and both she and our waiter were very concerned with our timetable regarding any plans we had for the evening. As we actually did have another engagement that evening it was nice to know they would be keeping in mind our timing needs.
Our waiter was helpful, explaining their menu that can be a bit confusing on first glance. Throughout the evening he was attentive, making sure drinks were filled, questions answered, and any issues dealt with quickly. This extended to the whole staff. Special kudos to the lady who brought us extra flatbread for our Bleu Cheese Fondue dish.
Before our orders arrived there was a complimentary amuse bouche brought to the table. A small cup containing mushrooms, garlic, and creme fraiche. This was an excellent way to begin as it was chock full of flavors, with sweet and savory playing against each other and rousing the taste buds to attention.
We began with splitting the Bites, one or two bite small dishes. They were decent though not very memorable. The shrimp, beans, chimichurri brioche bite was a nice touch to have as the cold shrimp served to contrast the warm shrimp in a later dish.
Rather than going to the large dishes we decided to sample most of the small plates:
- Melted Blue Cheese Fondue was addictive. Tangy and with smoked onion strings clinging to the crispy flatbread. One of our favorites.
- Spice Rubbed Grilled Ahi Tuna Taco. Spicy and fresh, it tasted like the ocean for lack of a better term. I'm not usually much of a seafood eater, but this was enjoyable. The salsa had a kick to it but not in the overpowering pure heat way. It was a subtle heat that never made me feel like I was just eating fire.
- Charred Calamari & Chorizo. The least impressive dish. The spicing seemed a bit off on this one. It was too strong on the calimari, and the chorizo was a touch bland. About halfway through this plate we threw in the towel. Not a bad dish, but not their best by any means.
- Brioche French Toast and Iberico Pork Belly. I really loved this one. The sweetness of the syrup and the saltiness of the syrup and the pork was a treat. I was so glad that the mrs. isn't a big pork eater, as it meant I got to eat most of this dish. I want to have a huge sandwich like this at breakfast one day.
- Farm Raised Shrimp and Anson Mills Organic Grits. When I have that breakfast sandwich, I WILL have this on the side. This was awesome, the highlight of the meal. The shrimp were warm and just seemed born to live inside these grits. I'm sorry there's not a better description here of flavors. But that is because this hit the real fifty taste bud group, the "Holy crap that's Awesome!" taste buds.
We really weren't sure about dessert at that point. We were full, but there has yet to be a dessert menu I won't take a look at. Or usually order from. We ended up getting three things. She got the chocolate sorbet. That was like chocolate and chocolate came together and created mega-chocolate. I love rich foods, but this damn near was too rich even for me. Note, I say "near", not actually too much. Because it was great.
I went for the scoop of vanilla ice cream, and a white-chocolate rum shot. Here Province lies. This isn't a shot. This is a small milkshake of white chocolate, eggnog, and rum. And it is glorious. They should offer it as a full size drink and charge your immortal soul as the price. They will sell millions of them and no one will mind the chance of an eternity in hellfire as a price to pay.
I have nothing bad to say about our time there. Sure a couple dishes weren't to die for, but really, for the amount we paid and what we ate, there is nothing to complain about or speak ill of. The service, the decor, the bathrooms, everything about the experience was of the highest quality, the food had moments of excellence and was consistently very good. So what the hell, let's give it the fourth star. It's earned it.
Province
161 N Jefferson
Chicago, IL 60661
(312) 669-9900
HCH Rating - 4 stars
One of the best parts about going to a good restaurant is the feeling afterwards that "wow, they really did everything right." The feeling that for a short while the world was in perfect harmony. That's how we felt after leaving Province. We were happy and satisfied, so much so that even the rain wasn't able to bring us down.
We had a very early reservation, right as the restaurant was opening for Saturday night dinner service. The hostess was very pleasant when we arrived, and both she and our waiter were very concerned with our timetable regarding any plans we had for the evening. As we actually did have another engagement that evening it was nice to know they would be keeping in mind our timing needs.
Our waiter was helpful, explaining their menu that can be a bit confusing on first glance. Throughout the evening he was attentive, making sure drinks were filled, questions answered, and any issues dealt with quickly. This extended to the whole staff. Special kudos to the lady who brought us extra flatbread for our Bleu Cheese Fondue dish.
Before our orders arrived there was a complimentary amuse bouche brought to the table. A small cup containing mushrooms, garlic, and creme fraiche. This was an excellent way to begin as it was chock full of flavors, with sweet and savory playing against each other and rousing the taste buds to attention.
We began with splitting the Bites, one or two bite small dishes. They were decent though not very memorable. The shrimp, beans, chimichurri brioche bite was a nice touch to have as the cold shrimp served to contrast the warm shrimp in a later dish.
Rather than going to the large dishes we decided to sample most of the small plates:
- Melted Blue Cheese Fondue was addictive. Tangy and with smoked onion strings clinging to the crispy flatbread. One of our favorites.
- Spice Rubbed Grilled Ahi Tuna Taco. Spicy and fresh, it tasted like the ocean for lack of a better term. I'm not usually much of a seafood eater, but this was enjoyable. The salsa had a kick to it but not in the overpowering pure heat way. It was a subtle heat that never made me feel like I was just eating fire.
- Charred Calamari & Chorizo. The least impressive dish. The spicing seemed a bit off on this one. It was too strong on the calimari, and the chorizo was a touch bland. About halfway through this plate we threw in the towel. Not a bad dish, but not their best by any means.
- Brioche French Toast and Iberico Pork Belly. I really loved this one. The sweetness of the syrup and the saltiness of the syrup and the pork was a treat. I was so glad that the mrs. isn't a big pork eater, as it meant I got to eat most of this dish. I want to have a huge sandwich like this at breakfast one day.
- Farm Raised Shrimp and Anson Mills Organic Grits. When I have that breakfast sandwich, I WILL have this on the side. This was awesome, the highlight of the meal. The shrimp were warm and just seemed born to live inside these grits. I'm sorry there's not a better description here of flavors. But that is because this hit the real fifty taste bud group, the "Holy crap that's Awesome!" taste buds.
We really weren't sure about dessert at that point. We were full, but there has yet to be a dessert menu I won't take a look at. Or usually order from. We ended up getting three things. She got the chocolate sorbet. That was like chocolate and chocolate came together and created mega-chocolate. I love rich foods, but this damn near was too rich even for me. Note, I say "near", not actually too much. Because it was great.
I went for the scoop of vanilla ice cream, and a white-chocolate rum shot. Here Province lies. This isn't a shot. This is a small milkshake of white chocolate, eggnog, and rum. And it is glorious. They should offer it as a full size drink and charge your immortal soul as the price. They will sell millions of them and no one will mind the chance of an eternity in hellfire as a price to pay.
I have nothing bad to say about our time there. Sure a couple dishes weren't to die for, but really, for the amount we paid and what we ate, there is nothing to complain about or speak ill of. The service, the decor, the bathrooms, everything about the experience was of the highest quality, the food had moments of excellence and was consistently very good. So what the hell, let's give it the fourth star. It's earned it.
Province
161 N Jefferson
Chicago, IL 60661
(312) 669-9900
HCH Rating - 4 stars
Monday, November 8, 2010
HCH Review of Katsu
This review has to begin with a disclaimer. I don't know a damn thing about sushi. I'm not proud of this. But things are what they are. I spent most of my life as a potato and meats sort of eater, so I just never had the inclination to go away from fire and beef.
That said, I enjoyed Katsu. When confronted with the menu I looked at it for a while, but eventually realized that it was meaningless to me regardless of whether I was reading the English or Japanese language parts of it. So I did what seemed the safest possible bet. I asked our very friendly waitress what she thought were the best things on the menu. She pointed out 5 different dishes. I told her to bring us all of them. I had no idea what I might have done. For all I knew I had ordered enough food to feed the whole place, or perhaps not even enough to make me remember having eaten 30 minutes later.
Luckily, because I live with a horseshoe wedged up my rear end (yes it hurts to sit sometimes, but we all have a cross to bear), it turned out to be just the right amount of food. We ended up with 2 sets of rolls (with 6 and 4 rolls respectively) and 3 nigiri dishes. The standouts were the Super White Toro rolls, and the O-Toro Gunkan. There was a lesson learned during the meal, and that lesson for me was to be sparing with the wasabi. The small amounts that were waiting underneath the nigiri sushi led to flavorful bites, with just enough heat to give the mouth a little tingling. The "it didn't look like that much but I guess it was" amount I put on top of a maki roll on the other hand left me breathing fire like a cartoon character for a good few minutes.
After the sushi we decided to give one last dish a try, as we both coveted the pumpkin tempura. A good decision on our parts. The hearty warmth of the tempura was nicely balanced by the complimentary melon we were given at the end of the meal. Sweet and sugary and full of moisture, this was an excellent ending to the dinner.
I would like to come back here and try the Omakase dinner, as I suspect my best hopes with sushi for a while will come from submitting myself to the tender mercies of those who know much better than I what the heck to eat and when to eat it. Also, I would love to try the sake menu, but figured better to wait until next time, lest we have had food and drink disasters in the same meal.
If you're a sushi expert, you really have no reason to listen to a damn thing I say here, unless you share a fondness for Japanese toys as decoration with me. In which case you will enjoy the decor. If on the other hand you're a sushi novice who has been putting off taking the plunge, I can tell you that Katsu will take good care of you. Friendly staff, expensive but certainly not painful prices, plenty of street parking, and some very fresh and tasty fish. Worked for me.
Katsu
2651 W. Peterson Ave.
Chicago, IL
(773) 784-3383
HCH rating - 4 stars
That said, I enjoyed Katsu. When confronted with the menu I looked at it for a while, but eventually realized that it was meaningless to me regardless of whether I was reading the English or Japanese language parts of it. So I did what seemed the safest possible bet. I asked our very friendly waitress what she thought were the best things on the menu. She pointed out 5 different dishes. I told her to bring us all of them. I had no idea what I might have done. For all I knew I had ordered enough food to feed the whole place, or perhaps not even enough to make me remember having eaten 30 minutes later.
Luckily, because I live with a horseshoe wedged up my rear end (yes it hurts to sit sometimes, but we all have a cross to bear), it turned out to be just the right amount of food. We ended up with 2 sets of rolls (with 6 and 4 rolls respectively) and 3 nigiri dishes. The standouts were the Super White Toro rolls, and the O-Toro Gunkan. There was a lesson learned during the meal, and that lesson for me was to be sparing with the wasabi. The small amounts that were waiting underneath the nigiri sushi led to flavorful bites, with just enough heat to give the mouth a little tingling. The "it didn't look like that much but I guess it was" amount I put on top of a maki roll on the other hand left me breathing fire like a cartoon character for a good few minutes.
After the sushi we decided to give one last dish a try, as we both coveted the pumpkin tempura. A good decision on our parts. The hearty warmth of the tempura was nicely balanced by the complimentary melon we were given at the end of the meal. Sweet and sugary and full of moisture, this was an excellent ending to the dinner.
I would like to come back here and try the Omakase dinner, as I suspect my best hopes with sushi for a while will come from submitting myself to the tender mercies of those who know much better than I what the heck to eat and when to eat it. Also, I would love to try the sake menu, but figured better to wait until next time, lest we have had food and drink disasters in the same meal.
If you're a sushi expert, you really have no reason to listen to a damn thing I say here, unless you share a fondness for Japanese toys as decoration with me. In which case you will enjoy the decor. If on the other hand you're a sushi novice who has been putting off taking the plunge, I can tell you that Katsu will take good care of you. Friendly staff, expensive but certainly not painful prices, plenty of street parking, and some very fresh and tasty fish. Worked for me.
Katsu
2651 W. Peterson Ave.
Chicago, IL
(773) 784-3383
HCH rating - 4 stars
HCH Review of Joe's Barbershop
Welcome to the barber shop that time forgot. You need the best of Sam Cooke on 8-Track? They got it. You need VHS copies of the Star Wars trilogy, you know, the ones before Lucas decided Han didn't shoot first? $2 a tape.
You need an excellent straight razor shave at a price that seems to have missed a decade or so of men's grooming service price inflation? Hot damn does Joe's have your back on this one. $15. FIFTEEN DOLLARS! When Joe Jr. mentioned that they would be raising the price to $20 after the new year I laughed because that's still absurdly cheap for the level of service involved.
The shave was exactly what a straight razor shave should be. I went in with a pretty good beard, so Joe took the beard down with the clippers before going to work. Two applications of hot towels to get everything nice and supple and on the surface. Warm lather gently applied to the skin. A chance to have Joe take a goofy picture of my face with 1/2 before and 1/2 after. A sure and steady hand working with a very sharp razor against my throat, never slipping despite the vigorous smack talking going back and forth between father and son as they worked on their respective clients. Cool towels and a good stinging after shave lotion.
Did I mention this was FIFTEEN DOLLARS?! I've given good reviews to other barbers, and they deserved them for good work. But this was certainly every bit as good as shaves that were three times the price. I cannot recommend this place highly enough. Old time barber shop vibe, ambience like the living room of that old uncle who hasn't thrown anything out since 1968, and an excellent shave at an unbeatable price.
Joe's Barbershop
2641 W Fullerton Ave
Chicago, IL
773-252-3980
HCH rating - 5 stars
You need an excellent straight razor shave at a price that seems to have missed a decade or so of men's grooming service price inflation? Hot damn does Joe's have your back on this one. $15. FIFTEEN DOLLARS! When Joe Jr. mentioned that they would be raising the price to $20 after the new year I laughed because that's still absurdly cheap for the level of service involved.
The shave was exactly what a straight razor shave should be. I went in with a pretty good beard, so Joe took the beard down with the clippers before going to work. Two applications of hot towels to get everything nice and supple and on the surface. Warm lather gently applied to the skin. A chance to have Joe take a goofy picture of my face with 1/2 before and 1/2 after. A sure and steady hand working with a very sharp razor against my throat, never slipping despite the vigorous smack talking going back and forth between father and son as they worked on their respective clients. Cool towels and a good stinging after shave lotion.
Did I mention this was FIFTEEN DOLLARS?! I've given good reviews to other barbers, and they deserved them for good work. But this was certainly every bit as good as shaves that were three times the price. I cannot recommend this place highly enough. Old time barber shop vibe, ambience like the living room of that old uncle who hasn't thrown anything out since 1968, and an excellent shave at an unbeatable price.
Joe's Barbershop
2641 W Fullerton Ave
Chicago, IL
773-252-3980
HCH rating - 5 stars
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Report from Meals on Wheels Chef's Ball, 10/15/2010
I love the show Top Chef. My wife, Amanda, and myself watch the show every week. I would guess you could probably create a lethal drinking game based on taking a shot whenever one of us utters a variation of the phrase “wouldn’t it be amazing to go to an event like this?” We sit enviously gazing as the frazzled contestants hand out their creations to a room full of lucky and always impeccably turned out attendees. Well, Meals on Wheels transformed the ninth floor of the downtown Chicago Macy’s into an event space out of every Top Chef fan’s hobnobbing dreams. Fifty different stations, each serving small plates of deliciousness. Three bars serving up free drinks with quality liquor all night long. A rock band in one room, a DJ spinning in another, and crowds of gorgeous people in perfect outfits lining up to take pictures in the photo studio set up for the evening. Yet never pretentious, even for someone like myself who can be somewhat prickly about that kind of thing.
But you’re not here for a discussion of my insecurities or which things I tried to win in the raffle they had that night (still bummed about not winning the ridealong with the Cupcake Mobile). Time to talk about the food. I regret not being able to eat at every single station, but we gave it the old college try, hitting up 20 of the 50 food booths. A few of the highlights of the night food-wise were:
• Girl and the Goat: It was easy to tell who the big star of the night was. The normal line at a booth was perhaps three or four people at a given time. The line to try the “Walter’s Chicken” at Stephanie Izard’s booth was over 20 people long when we arrived. Izard is a rock star in the food world at the moment. The chicken itself was good, though I’m actually kind of blanking on the details of it at the moment. I remember Stephanie handing it to me though, and that’s something no other dish had going for it.
• Culinary Speakeasy: Another Top Chef Season 4 alum, Valerie Bolon, was responsible for one of the my favorite dishes of the night. Her take on the traditional soup and sandwich was brilliant. Creamy apple and onion soup with a mini-Emmanthaler grilled cheese sandwich, and a bit of crispy prosciutto was the dinner that the best mom in the world would make you when you’re sick. The soup was rich and sweet, the grilled cheese melted in your mouth, and the prosciutto gave the dish the added texture to keep everything from being too soft and decadent. If this is the kind of things being served at the dinner parties hosted by Bolon and Rachel Winpar then I want on the guest list.
• English: What the heck, how about one more dish by a Top Chef contestant? Radhika Desai, a Season 5 contestant, may have opened the door to the next fast food item ready to be all classed-up and given a haute cuisine makeover. Her lamb and feta slider with cucumber sauce tasted like the gyro I’ve spent my life searching for. Tangy, just a little spicy, hot and cool all at once. And really, in a city where people wait two hours at a hot dog stand or spend $20 for a burger, why shouldn’t someone elevate the humble gyro from a late-night drunken food staple into a canvas upon which creative chefs can let their creativity flow?
• Rockit Bar and Grill / Burger Bar: Two restaurants, two sliders, two delicious burgers. Burger Bar’s Hey Shortay slider with Tallgrass beef, porter braised shortribs and caramelized onion slaw was wonderfully beefy with a full flavor, and a bit of sweetness from the onions. Filling and flavorful, yet still light and not overwhelming to the palate or the stomach. The Rockit burger on the other hand was a marauding presence. It came up to your mouth, slapped the taste of everything else clean out, and took up residence like an angry squatter. I loved it. Kobe beef, melted brie, fried shallot, and medjool date aioli on a thick hearty bun combined to bring so much flavor and texture that I was slightly dazed as I ate it. It was almost too much to handle in such an already ultra-stimulating environment, but it made me really really really want to try this burger as a meal on its own.
• Takashi: The Chef’s Ball was on a Friday night. On Sunday afternoon, as I watched the crime against humanity that was the Chicago Bears playing football, one thought kept popping into my mind. Well, one thought that can be printed without copious use of asterisks anyhow. That thought? “Man, I want a big bowl full of Takashi’s chicken-prosciutto croquettes, because those were possibly the best snackable treat I’ve had in my life.” I know rarely does one think of fine dining as something that would go along with chips and guac or Fritos and sour cream and onion dip. I know there was a quite tasty curried lentil soup that surrounded the croquette. But if I could indulge without regard for finance or propriety, I would eat a giant freaking bowl of those little spheres of wonderfulness. Takashi Yagahashi should sell take-out boxes of them on Sundays for deranged folks like myself.
• Bittersweet Bakery / Balsan & Ria: By now you’ve likely heard all you need to hear about the sudden rise of the macaron as a hip new dessert treat. But there is a reason for the explosion. They’re small enough to avoid being overwhelming to the waistline. They have flexibility, allowing so many different flavors that you can keep trying new ideas or returning to old favorites without becoming bored by them. And they’re so decadent that they can fulfill the need for something that feels like a special treat without having to drop an exorbitant sum of cash on them. Both of these places had macarons available. Judy Contino’s Bittersweet Bakery macaron was chocolate. Theirs was a very dense macaron, rich and hearty. It seemed designed for maximum chocolate delivery, a goal I can get behind. Jason McLeod went a more exotic route with the macarons at Balsan & Ria. With flavors of sesame-fig, cinnamon, and very dark bitter chocolate, these macarons were more challenging to the tongue. Unlike the very dense, packed flavor of Bittersweet these were airy and more of a tease, with subtle but exciting flavor. The chocolate one especially was a challenge as this was not a comforting sort of treat for after a hard day at work. This was something to try when you’re ready to really think about what you just ate.
• Lockwood: Last, but absolutely anything but least, was the banana dessert from Fabrice Bouet. With a small disc of shortbread topped with bittersweet mousse, banana, and almond this dessert treat made the top of my head pop off and spin around like I was from a Tex Avery cartoon. With every flavor balanced just right, the banana leading the way but never outrunning the rest of the tastes, and a combination of textures that was pillow soft yet never falling apart this was an undisputed winner for me. I could say more, but every word I type about it means a longer time between when I finish and when I can go find more of this dessert, and I have my priorities in order on this one.
By 10:00 most of the stations were packing up for the night, leaving the guests to try and work off all the food on the dance floors or in the Horseshoe Casino’s gaming area. For us, it was time to leave this wonderland, happily grabbing up the complimentary More cupcakes being handed out as we were leaving Macy’s. I can’t say enough good things about the evening. A very worthy cause made much-needed money to continue doing their important work in these tough times. And everyone who attended was able to enjoy some of the best chefs in Chicago dishing out some of the best dishes they could whip up for us. I’ll be going back next year even if I have to pay for my ticket, which at $100 is still an incredible bargain for all that food, drink, entertainment, people-watching, and oh yeah, helping out a wonderful charitable organization.
But you’re not here for a discussion of my insecurities or which things I tried to win in the raffle they had that night (still bummed about not winning the ridealong with the Cupcake Mobile). Time to talk about the food. I regret not being able to eat at every single station, but we gave it the old college try, hitting up 20 of the 50 food booths. A few of the highlights of the night food-wise were:
• Girl and the Goat: It was easy to tell who the big star of the night was. The normal line at a booth was perhaps three or four people at a given time. The line to try the “Walter’s Chicken” at Stephanie Izard’s booth was over 20 people long when we arrived. Izard is a rock star in the food world at the moment. The chicken itself was good, though I’m actually kind of blanking on the details of it at the moment. I remember Stephanie handing it to me though, and that’s something no other dish had going for it.
• Culinary Speakeasy: Another Top Chef Season 4 alum, Valerie Bolon, was responsible for one of the my favorite dishes of the night. Her take on the traditional soup and sandwich was brilliant. Creamy apple and onion soup with a mini-Emmanthaler grilled cheese sandwich, and a bit of crispy prosciutto was the dinner that the best mom in the world would make you when you’re sick. The soup was rich and sweet, the grilled cheese melted in your mouth, and the prosciutto gave the dish the added texture to keep everything from being too soft and decadent. If this is the kind of things being served at the dinner parties hosted by Bolon and Rachel Winpar then I want on the guest list.
• English: What the heck, how about one more dish by a Top Chef contestant? Radhika Desai, a Season 5 contestant, may have opened the door to the next fast food item ready to be all classed-up and given a haute cuisine makeover. Her lamb and feta slider with cucumber sauce tasted like the gyro I’ve spent my life searching for. Tangy, just a little spicy, hot and cool all at once. And really, in a city where people wait two hours at a hot dog stand or spend $20 for a burger, why shouldn’t someone elevate the humble gyro from a late-night drunken food staple into a canvas upon which creative chefs can let their creativity flow?
• Rockit Bar and Grill / Burger Bar: Two restaurants, two sliders, two delicious burgers. Burger Bar’s Hey Shortay slider with Tallgrass beef, porter braised shortribs and caramelized onion slaw was wonderfully beefy with a full flavor, and a bit of sweetness from the onions. Filling and flavorful, yet still light and not overwhelming to the palate or the stomach. The Rockit burger on the other hand was a marauding presence. It came up to your mouth, slapped the taste of everything else clean out, and took up residence like an angry squatter. I loved it. Kobe beef, melted brie, fried shallot, and medjool date aioli on a thick hearty bun combined to bring so much flavor and texture that I was slightly dazed as I ate it. It was almost too much to handle in such an already ultra-stimulating environment, but it made me really really really want to try this burger as a meal on its own.
• Takashi: The Chef’s Ball was on a Friday night. On Sunday afternoon, as I watched the crime against humanity that was the Chicago Bears playing football, one thought kept popping into my mind. Well, one thought that can be printed without copious use of asterisks anyhow. That thought? “Man, I want a big bowl full of Takashi’s chicken-prosciutto croquettes, because those were possibly the best snackable treat I’ve had in my life.” I know rarely does one think of fine dining as something that would go along with chips and guac or Fritos and sour cream and onion dip. I know there was a quite tasty curried lentil soup that surrounded the croquette. But if I could indulge without regard for finance or propriety, I would eat a giant freaking bowl of those little spheres of wonderfulness. Takashi Yagahashi should sell take-out boxes of them on Sundays for deranged folks like myself.
• Bittersweet Bakery / Balsan & Ria: By now you’ve likely heard all you need to hear about the sudden rise of the macaron as a hip new dessert treat. But there is a reason for the explosion. They’re small enough to avoid being overwhelming to the waistline. They have flexibility, allowing so many different flavors that you can keep trying new ideas or returning to old favorites without becoming bored by them. And they’re so decadent that they can fulfill the need for something that feels like a special treat without having to drop an exorbitant sum of cash on them. Both of these places had macarons available. Judy Contino’s Bittersweet Bakery macaron was chocolate. Theirs was a very dense macaron, rich and hearty. It seemed designed for maximum chocolate delivery, a goal I can get behind. Jason McLeod went a more exotic route with the macarons at Balsan & Ria. With flavors of sesame-fig, cinnamon, and very dark bitter chocolate, these macarons were more challenging to the tongue. Unlike the very dense, packed flavor of Bittersweet these were airy and more of a tease, with subtle but exciting flavor. The chocolate one especially was a challenge as this was not a comforting sort of treat for after a hard day at work. This was something to try when you’re ready to really think about what you just ate.
• Lockwood: Last, but absolutely anything but least, was the banana dessert from Fabrice Bouet. With a small disc of shortbread topped with bittersweet mousse, banana, and almond this dessert treat made the top of my head pop off and spin around like I was from a Tex Avery cartoon. With every flavor balanced just right, the banana leading the way but never outrunning the rest of the tastes, and a combination of textures that was pillow soft yet never falling apart this was an undisputed winner for me. I could say more, but every word I type about it means a longer time between when I finish and when I can go find more of this dessert, and I have my priorities in order on this one.
By 10:00 most of the stations were packing up for the night, leaving the guests to try and work off all the food on the dance floors or in the Horseshoe Casino’s gaming area. For us, it was time to leave this wonderland, happily grabbing up the complimentary More cupcakes being handed out as we were leaving Macy’s. I can’t say enough good things about the evening. A very worthy cause made much-needed money to continue doing their important work in these tough times. And everyone who attended was able to enjoy some of the best chefs in Chicago dishing out some of the best dishes they could whip up for us. I’ll be going back next year even if I have to pay for my ticket, which at $100 is still an incredible bargain for all that food, drink, entertainment, people-watching, and oh yeah, helping out a wonderful charitable organization.
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